Candi Plaosan, A Wonderful Assemble of Temples in the Middle of Rice Fields

The complex is located to the east of Prambanan, in the Plaosan hamlet, village of Bugisan, Prambanan district, Klaten. To visit it you have to take the Jogjakarta-Solo highway, passing in front of the Prambanan temples, turn left (north), follow the road for for 2km. Take the right turn after a signpost indicating the temples, pass in front of the SPSP office and you will arrive at an intersection. Continue straight ahead and after 300m you will reach Plaosan Lor. You will be required to pay a contribution to enter. Plaosan Kidul is at the other side of the road, several meters to the south.

The Plaosan complex, 400x270m large, is constituted of a principal group and two sub-complexes at the north and the south. The first, Plaosan Lor, has two square courtyards, each containing a temple in a form similar to Candi Sari. Secondary temples and stupas, 58 of each, arranged in three tiers forming a rectangular complex, surround these courtyards. A specimen of each was reconstructed in 1941 and the two doors in 1945 and 1948. The second sub-complex, Plaosan Kidul, has one temple, 69 stupas and 18 secondary temples.

Plaosan like Prambanan and Sewu, makes an enormous complex of which we can, unfortunately, only approximate the function. Plaosan seems to have been a creation of a princess in the Sailendra dynasti, of Buddhist confession, who was married to a king of the Mataram dynasti, a Shivaist. The temple is thus the result of the pious cooperation and dates from the middle of the IXth century. An entourage has recently been discovered and you can see a fragment below, at the left side of the road about 20m away.

The two temples of the Plaosan Lor are oriented to the west and the doors that open to the ric fields are guarded by two large statues of Dwarpala that has always been sacred by the local villagers. The structure of the two sanctuaries is similar to that of the Sari temple; it has three chambers, each containing a statue on a plinth and we can observe the traces of an upward flight of stairs. By entering the first 9the one on the south side you will reach the central chamber whose altar is composed of two stone statues (boddhisattvas) surrounding an empty plinth, on which probably stood a Buddha in metal (bronze or silver).

At each side of this chamber, doors lead to other chambers containing representations of Dhyanis Buddha, Buddhist divinity of the Mahayana that has the task of saving all living creatures. The two statues are in lower level than of the center and has the right leg bent, delicately posed on a lotus, giving the impression of symbolizing the accessibilty of the bodhisattvas to its disciples. You will notice the extraordinary richness of the statue’s details, sitting on a lotus bed with other flowers jutting out from it, the number of gems representations of donators, priests, and pilgrims. A pasage enables a circumnavigation of the temple and you will see bas-reliefs representing bodhisattvas.

We reach the second temple, similar in form and motif, by a door in the entourage (at the north). Unfortunately, the statues of the second temple are in worse condition. Plaosan is made of andesite stones, while its enclosure and secondary temples are of white stones. Don’t miss the recently reconstructed stone terrace surrounded by secondary temples. The terrace is the base of third temple that undoubtedly was built of wood (the presence of pillar plinths). Numerous examples of the Javanese statuary art are present: Buddha, bodhisattvas, indo-Buddhist divinities, and so forth. Plaosan Kidul, discovered in 1941, stands in a state of ruins on the south side of the road and is undoubtedly an integral part of the complex.

Continuing to the north, you will see a series of modern buildings that are the Office of Archeological Services. The vast assemble of stones and statues are visible behind the railings belong to the complex, but also to other temples in the region.

Due to the presence of the courtyards, the local villagers believe that the rulers of the kingdom used the place as an area of cocklfighting. Until today they often hear the cries of the fighting cocks as well as the noise of the audience.

Source: Situs-Situs Marjinal Jogja (Sanctuaires Retrouvés/ Sites Out of Sight) - M. Rizky Sasono, Jean-Pascal Elbaz, Agung 'Leak' Kurniawan (Enrique indonesia, Yogyakarta: 1997).

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